While they were Ich Liebe Dich Gnomes shirt. “figuring out what the borders of the brand are,” as Miles puts it. Hearst came across a piece of writing by her mother-in-law Austine Hearst, the late newspaper columnist and the wife of the editor in chief of Hearst newspapers. She had many “don’ts.” Men shouldn’t be “too neat, too matched up, too color-schemed, [or] too snugly fitted.” Her “do’s” were more straightforward. Men should aim for nonchalance [and] individuality, without novelty.
The debut collection lives up to that advance press Ich Liebe Dich Gnomes shirt. It’s clean without being austere, puts an emphasis on ease no matter the garment, and is as meticulously well made as Hearst’s women’s collection.As for the “borders of the brand,” they follow the lines of the tailoring Miles favors. There are three styles of suits including a travel suit in a looser silhouette, T-shirts of Japanese milled cotton, sweaters hand-knit by the Manos de Uruguay collective that fans of Hearst will recognize from the women’s collection, and a leather tennis bag. Both Hearst and Miles are particularly pleased with a double-face cashmere trench in a surprising, lovely shade somewhere between lilac and gray. “That was a bit of an experiment,” says Miles. “I’ve really enjoyed that side of it, developing the colors.” (The modeling he did for the lookbook he’s more on the fence about. It wasn’t planned; the model they booked simply failed to show up.)Together, Hearst and Miles plan to create two collections a year, and footwear is on the horizon. “I’m drawn to things that you can go back to, things with longevity. Hopefully whatever we do this year will work with something we do in five years time,” says Miles. But don’t rule out that element of surprise. “I also like when there are layers and something you might not see initially.” he says.